Πρ. Ηλίας Ταϋγέτου (25-26/08/18)

Κατηγορία Gallery 2018

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Ήταν Δευτέρα 20 Αυγούστου και το ελληνικό καλοκαίρι ακόμα καλά κρατούσε. Για εμένα ωστόσο σε λίγες μέρες πλησίαζε η ώρα της επιστροφής στη βάση μου, το -πολύ βροχερό!- Λονδίνο. Η μετάβαση στο φθινόπωρο αναμενόταν απότομη και καθώς πλησίαζαν οι ημέρες, με έπιασε μια μεγάλη επιθυμία για μια τελευταία εξόρμηση στην ελληνική φύση... Άρχισα να αναζητώ ορεινές εκδρομές στο ίντερνετ και από τα πιο όμορφα ‘ευρήματά’ μου για τις προσεχείς μέρες ήταν η εκδρομή του Ορειβατικού Συλλόγου Καλαμάτας το Σαββατοκύριακο 25-26 Αυγούστου με τίτλο ‘Νυχτερινή ανάβαση στον Ταΰγετο με πανσέληνο’. Η περιγραφή δε θα μπορούσε να αφήσει ασυγκίνητη ούτε την πιο αντι-ρομαντική ψυχή του κόσμου... Με κάποια ανησυχία για το αν η εκδρομή θα ήταν ανοιχτή για μη μέλη του συλλόγου και για το αν η φυσική μου κατάσταση θα μου επέτρεπε μία ανάβαση σε κορυφή 2.407 μέτρων, πήρα τηλέφωνο στο σύλλογο για πληροφορίες. Μία πολύ φιλική φωνή με διαβεβαίωσε ότι ‘δε θα έχεις πρόβλημα’ και μου απαρίθμησε τον εξοπλισμό που θα χρειαζόμουνα. Τις προσεχείς ημέρες προμηθεύτηκα φακό κεφαλής και όλα τα απαραίτητα ρούχα και εφόδια και όλα ήταν έτοιμα για την πρώτη μου ανάβαση στον Ταΰγετο!

Νωρίς το πρωί του Σαββάτου ξεκίνησα από τη Λειβαδιά και μετά από 6 ώρες διαδρομής -με αυτοκίνητο, ΚΤΕΛ και ταξί!- έφτασα στα γραφεία του συλλόγου στην Καλαμάτα. Τα μέλη είχαν ήδη αρχίσει να συγκεντρώνονται και στην ατμόσφαιρα υπήρχε πολύς ενθουσιασμός. Φιλικότατοι όλοι, χρειάστηκαν λίγα μόλις λεπτά για να αισθανθώ ευπρόσδεκτη σε μία ομάδα ανθρώπων που είχαν εμφανώς περάσει μαζί πολλές όμορφες πεζοπορικές εμπειρίες! Αφού φορτώσαμε τα σακίδιά μας στα οχήματα, η εκδρομή ξεκίνησε! Μετά από περίπου 1 ώρα διαδρομής και σύντομη στάση στην Καρδαμύλη, μπήκαμε στο δασικό δρόμο με προορισμό το δάσος της Βασιλικής και το καταφύγιο του Μπάρμπα-Λια. Αρχίσαμε να ανεβαίνουμε σε υψόμετρο, να εγκαταλείπουμε ένα ένα τα σημάδια του πολιτισμού και να μπαίνουμε όλο και περισσότερο στα βάθη της φύσης. Τα δέντρα, ψηλόλιγνα και εντυπωσιακά, φύτρωναν όλο και πιο πυκνά μεταξύ τους και αγελάδες έβοσκαν αμέριμνες εκατέρωθεν του δρόμου! Δύσβατος, απότομος και γεμάτος στροφές ο δρόμος, όμως ο οδηγός μας ο κύριος Κώστας, απέπνεε τέτοια σιγουριά και ηρεμία που δεν άφηνε το παραμικρό περιθώριο ανησυχίας... Καθόμουν δίπλα του και μιλούσαμε για τις κορυφές που έχει κατακτήσει μαζί με άλλα μέλη του συλλόγου σε όλον τον κόσμο! «Ο Ταΰγετος είναι το βουνό μας», μου έλεγε με εμφανή αγάπη και οικειότητα για τα μέρη από τα οποία περνούσαμε. Τέτοια και άλλα πολλά λέγαμε στο δρόμο, για την ονομασία «Βασιλική», για αρχαίους μύθους και για τα κάστρα της Μάνης και χωρίς να το καταλάβουμε φτάσαμε στο καταφύγιο! Το τοπίο ήταν πανέμορφο με πυκνά δέντρα, εμφανώς πιο κρύο βουνίσιο κλίμα και μερικά χαμηλά σύννεφα και ομίχλη γύρω μας που προσέθεταν ακόμα περισσότερη γοητεία! Μετά το στήσιμο των σκηνών και την τακτοποίηση στο καταφύγιο, ήρθε η ώρα του δείπνου... μετά μουσικής! Με τη συνοδεία της κιθάρας και των φωνών των μουσικών μας Γιώργου και Βασίλη και υπό το φως των αστεριών, τα τραγούδια και οι χοροί κράτησαν μέχρι το βράδυ!

Μετά από έναν σύντομο αλλά δυναμωτικό ύπνο, στις 3πμ ήμασταν ήδη όλοι έτοιμοι με τους φακούς κεφαλής αναμμένους και τα σακίδια στους ώμους για αναχώρηση προς την κορυφή του Προφήτη Ηλία! Το πρώτο κομμάτι της διαδρομής ήταν σε μονοπάτι μέσα στο δάσος. Μετά από περίπου μία ώρα πεζοπορίας, βγήκαμε από το δάσος και μπορούσαμε πλέον να απολαύσουμε το υπέροχο θέαμα του έναστρου ουρανού και της πανσελήνου! Η ανάβαση συνεχίστηκε σε όλο και ψηλότερα, πιο βραχώδη και δύσβατα σημεία του βουνού με μερικές στάσεις στη θέση Μουζιά για ανεφοδιασμό νερού από την πηγή και στο διάσελο του Πατιστού για να κλείσουμε τους φακούς μας και να απολαύσουμε το τοπίο. Υπό το φως των αστεριών και του φεγγαριού, οι όγκοι του βουνού και οι κορυφογραμμές τριγύρω μας έπαιρναν ένα εντυπωσιακό ασημόλευκο χρώμα. Πάνω από δύο ώρες πεζοπορίας είχαν περάσει και ήμασταν πλέον κατά μήκος της κορυφογραμμής, αρκετά ψηλά για να μπορούμε να βλέπουμε από τη μία πλευρά το Λακωνικό κόλπο και από την άλλη το Μεσσηνιακό με τα φώτα της Καλαμάτας και με την πανσέληνο να δημιουργούν ασημόχρυσες αντανακλάσεις στην επιφάνεια της θάλασσας. Καθώς πλέον μπαίναμε στην τελική ευθεία για την κορυφή του Προφήτη Ηλία η διαδρομή γινόταν όλο και πιο απαιτητική - η αλήθεια είναι ότι καθώς σκαρφαλώναμε στα βράχια, με αρκετή αγωνία σκεφτόμουν πώς θα ήταν η επερχόμενη κατάβαση... Εν τω μεταξύ όμως η μέρα είχε αρχίσει να χαράζει και ο μαύρος ουρανός και τα αστέρια έδιναν σιγά σιγά τη θέση τους στα υπέροχα ροζ και πορτοκαλί χρώματα του ηλίου που σε λίγο θα ανέτελλε. Στις 6.30πμ περίπου φτάσαμε στον Προφήτη Ηλία! Ήταν η πρώτη μου φορά που έφτασα σε τόσο ψηλή κορυφή και τι μαγικό πραγματικά συναίσθημα! Απόλυτη γαλήνη και ένωση με τη φύση αλλά και δέος μπροστά στο εντυπωσιακό θέαμα των κορυφογραμμών που ξεπρόβαλλαν μέσα από την ομίχλη. Σε λίγο ανέτειλε ο ήλιος και ο ουρανός και το τοπίο φωτίστηκαν ακόμα περισσότερο. Δυστυχώς λόγω της ομίχλης δεν μπορέσαμε να δούμε καθαρά παρά μόνο για μερικά λεπτά το φαινόμενο της πυραμίδας, που όμως έστω και έτσι ήταν ιδιαίτερα εντυπωσιακό! Ευχάριστη έκπληξη στην κορυφή ήταν ότι συναντηθήκαμε με άλλους 4 ορειβατικούς συλλόγους από την Κόρινθο, το Λουτράκι, την Τρίπολη και τη Σπάρτη!

Μετά από παραμονή περίπου μίας ώρας στον Προφήτη Ηλία, είχε έρθει η ώρα της κατάβασης! Δύο... ‘αποστάτες’ της ομάδας, ο Βασίλης και ο Κώστας, είχαν ήδη ενημερώσει ότι θέλουν να επιστρέψουν από διαφορετική διαδρομή από την πλευρά της Σπάρτης και των Πενταυλών. Η διαδρομή, αν και πολύ πιο μεγάλη, ήταν σχετικά πιο στρωτή και αποφασίσαμε μαζί με την συν-ορειβάτισσά μου Θεώνη να τους ακολουθήσουμε. Οι τέσσερις μας λοιπόν ξεκινήσαμε την κατάβαση και είχαμε την ευκαιρία να απολαύσουμε και το υπόλοιπο κομμάτι του βουνού, υπό το φως τώρα της ημέρας. Μετά από περίπου 2 ώρες πεζοπορίας ολοκληρώσαμε το πρώτο και πιο βραχώδες κομμάτι της κατάβασης και φτάσαμε στο καταφύγιο Σπάρτης. Μετά από σύντομη στάση για ξεκούραση, συνεχίσαμε τη διαδρομή μέσα από το πανέμορφο δάσος Βασιλικής. Απολαύσαμε την πεζοπορία ανάμεσα στην υπέροχη πυκνή βλάστηση και κάναμε διαλείμματα για ανασυγκρότηση (και ενίοτε μικρή αναρρίχηση!) στην πετρόκτιστη πηγή και τις πηγές των Πενταυλών. Μόλις φτάσαμε στη θέση Δημαρχείο σε υψόμετρο 1.200μ, ήμασταν σχεδόν στην τελική ευθεία προς το καταφύγιο και αρχίσαμε μια μεγάλη ανάβαση προς το καταφύγιο του Μπαρμπα-Λια στα 1.500μ. Τελευταία στάση πριν φτάσουμε στον τελικό μας προορισμό ήταν στο εκκλησάκι του Αγίου Δημητρίου για έναν ακόμα ανεφοδιασμό νερού στην πηγή. Φτάνοντας στο καταφύγιο μας μετά από μια δύσκολη 5ωρη σχεδόν διαδρομή, μας περίμενε η πιο νόστιμη επιβράβευση: ένας υπέροχος, ζεστός τραχανάς μαγειρεμένος από το σεφ Γιώργο, που ολοκλήρωσε τέλεια αυτή την όμορφη βουνίσια εμπειρία! Κάπου εκεί είχε έρθει η ώρα να μαζέψουμε τις σκηνές και να πάρουμε το δρόμο της επιστροφής μας για την Καλαμάτα. Το ωραιότερο τέλος σε αυτήν την διήμερη εξόρμηση γράφτηκε με μία τελική στάση για ένα χαλαρωτικό μπάνιο στην παραλία της Καρδαμύλης!

Πίσω στο Λονδίνο και καθώς γράφω αυτήν την αφήγηση, φέρνω στο νου μου με νοσταλγία όλα τα πανέμορφα τοπία του Ταΰγετου και δεν μπορώ παρά να είμαι ευγνώμων προς τον Ορειβατικό Σύλλογο Καλαμάτας για όλες τις υπέροχες αυτές στιγμές και ανυπομονώ να τους ακολουθήσω ξανά σε μία επόμενη εξόρμηση στη φύση!

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Περισσότερα σε αυτή την κατηγορία: « Κορυφή Χαλασμένο Ταϋγέτου (22-23/09/18) Kέα (07-09/09/18) »

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